Method for producing tridimensional knitted goods

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a method for producing knitted goods in general, hose in particular, with tridimensional effects or shaped goods, preferably fitted with at least one pocket automatically produced with the continuous motion of the needle cylinder. The usual knitted fabric production is modified by excluding, according to a preestablished order, sequences of needles (retaining the last loop or stitch) that are preferably alternated (1:1-2:2-3:1-etc.), even by groups. The knitted tube production goes on, even over several courses, with a differentiated growing, i.e. regions having full needles or ribs and regions having non-full needles or ribs, forming knitted layers or tubes ( 5, 6 ) concentric with the inner knitted tube folded upwardly and only partly interstitched or closed in the horizontal direction. The remaining part, which is open, corresponds to the two-layer pouch-like pocket, being the object of the invention.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a method for producing tridimensionalknitting goods.

BACKGROUND ART

Generally, with circular knitting and hosiery machines, efficient andaesthetically appreciable effects of tridimensional tricot are onlyobtained with the reciprocating movement of the cylinder needle, butthis method greatly increases production costs. Alternatively, in thecase of hose with the so-called pouch heel, which is known to thoseskilled in the art, the method enables similar results to be achieved,but with a significant loss in quality and yarn due to the presence of agreat number of cut threads. More generally, in order to increase thevalue of some knitted goods, during the manufacturing process, variouspockets or loops are added by subsequent cut and sew operation, so thatthe cost of the finished articles is greatly increased.

In addition, in the hosiery field, the presence of pockets or similarhorizontal openings is widely unknown.

In everyday as well as in sports activities, are often required ornecessary garments that are adapted to protect from impacts (shinpads infootball, for example) or that are capable of meeting a higher standardin terms of practical use and comfort (such as multi-pocket jackets forhiking people, fishermen and hunters, or containers for golf clubs) andsatisfying other needs of an aesthetic or functional character.

Taking into account the great development in the clothing field forsports and free time, knitted garments in general, socks in particular,have enjoyed little consideration as a possible support for innovationsor more interesting functions; they are, yet, mere single-fabric orsingle-layer knitted tubes supplied with an elastic top: thus they stillrepresent a mere or fortuitous thin wall between foot and shoe.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

In recent years great interest was awakened when circular knittingmachines of the full electronic type with differentiated diameters wereintroduced on the market, because the versatility of these machinesenables a wide variety of semifinished knitted goods to be produced:brassieres, pants, dresses, trousers, skirts, bodies, bathing costumes,sports garments and still others. But, due to some inherent technicalrestrictions, among which lack of pockets, said knitted goods requireadditional labourious sewing operations for garment finishing.Otherwise, they merely remain without pockets and consequently lesscompetitive.

That being stated, the invention intends to reduce or at least partlyeliminate some of the above mentioned technical and production limits;with a production method having original economic, technical, aestheticand commercial aims.

Consequently, it is a main object of the present invention to provide amethod for producing knitted goods in general, hose in particular,having tridimensional effects, preferably fitted with at least onepocket automatically produced with the continuous movement of thecylinder needle. It is a further object of the invention to provide amethod for producing knitted goods in general, socks in particular, alsocharacterized by the presence of pockets formed of at least two layersor cloths, even adapted to be partly turned inside out.

It is an additional object of the invention to provide a method forproducing knitted goods such as brassieres, pants, woollen underwear andknitwear, skirts, pants and technical items in general, characterized bythe presence of at least one pocket or pouch. Another main object of theinvention is to provide a method for producing knitted goods with atleast one flounce formed of multi layers or fabrics and having thefunction of an inner lining.

The above mentioned objects are substantially achieved by a method forproducing knitted goods, characterized by automatically producing onsaid goods at least one open pocket of multy-layer fabrics obtained withthe continuous motion of a needle bed and with a prolonged but temporaryand programmed exclusion of a suitable number of needles.

Further features of the invention and the advantages resulting therefromwill be more fully understood from the following description of somepreferred but not exclusive embodiments of a method according to theinvention now given by way of non-limiting example. The description willbe taken with reference to the accompanying drawings in which:

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 shows a structure of jersey knitted fabric material provided witha floating yarn;

FIG. 2 shows a knitted fabric obtained by working needles alternatedwith excluded needles;

FIG. 2a shows a closed knitted flounce formed by two layers of cloths;

FIG. 3 is a front view of a knitted fabric provided with a series ofshort floating yarns;

FIG. 3a is a sectional view of the fabric of FIG. 3;

FIG. 4 shows a side view of a sock obtained with the method of thepresent invention;

FIG. 5 is a front view of another sock obtained with the present method;

FIG. 6 shows a front view of the sock of FIG. 4 turned inside out;

FIG. 7 shows a tubular fabric with an alternative form of pocket;

FIG. 8 shows a side view of a sock having a pocket as wide as half theneedle cylinder;

FIG. 9 shows in a more schematically way the pocket of FIG. 8;

FIG. 10 shows a pair of knitted pants provided with a pocket;

FIG. 11 shows a sweater provided with a pocket;

FIG. 12 shows a sweater provided with a series of pockets;

FIG. 13 shows a brassiere provided with two pockets;

FIG. 14 shows a body stocking with outer and inner pockets;

FIG. 15 shows a skirt or a pair of trousers provided with two sidepockets.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT

The invention relates to a method which can find application in thefield of the textile machines in general, and of knitting and ofcircular machines in particular.

Most of the description is made with reference to an essentiallycircular machine equipped with at least one needle bed or a cylinderrotating against stationary cams or vice versa, with at least onecomplete feed and therefore provided with: one or more yarn feeders;electronic or mechanical, or electromechanical needle selection, adaptedto control the elements taking part in formation of the stitch orknitted fabric according to a pattern or working cycle.

Said circular knitting machine is additionally equipped with at leastone dial provided with needles or hooks preferably to be selected by anelectronic system or with the aid of usual cams adapted to select thejacks or needles butts, conveniently arranged. The invention is firstembodied by preparing a jacquard pattern or motif, or informationdirected to the needles or jacks or other elements taking part in tricotformation, by a control or memory device or by electromechanical,magnetic, optical apparatus, or any other apparatus adapted for thepurpose.

Contrary to the custom, an important part of said pulses or informationis not sent to the needles or part of them, according to a definedscheme or program and according to the original pattern. This gives riseto exclusion from the tricot-formation process of the needles devoid ofinputs or commands; this exclusion which may be complete or per definedregions, produces floating yarns instead of the loops, as Y in FIG. 1.

Consequently, the knitted fabric tube is submitted to a structuraldeformation caused by a differentiated growing of the knitted fabric asa whole, adapted to preestablish tridimensional shapes of the fabric andsuitable to conform to the human anatomy: sock heels and toes; or hips,bust, breasts, etc.

Said floating yarns can be further handled with some working needlesduly spaced apart in said region of complete exclusion, with a dualpurpose, i.e. that of reducing the floating yarn length and that ofcreating, if required, important interlacements of stitches.

Then by disposing some working needles in the concerned area andoperating in a single or double (crossed) diagonal direction, braid-likeeffects are obtained, instead of the free floating yarns. This improvesboth the aspect and wearing quality of the knitted item, having saidbraids an aesthetic value of great effect, as F in FIG. 3.

The invention is fully carried out by further handling said floatingyarns and converting-them into a knitted fabric produced with only partof the needles present in the areas already defined as completelyexcluded from the tricot-formation process.

In this case the invention is accomplished by sending inputs orinformation to only part of the needles of the pattern areas previouslyalready excluded, according to an established order.

For instance, only odd needles or only needles in alternating pairs willbe excluded, i.e. in groups of three working needles followed by one ormore excluded needles, etc.

The simultaneous presence of working needles and loops B, alternatedwith excluded needles and loops A, FIG. 2, over defined regions and forA relatively long time, (corresponding to a high number of stitchcourses) is a sufficient and necessary premise for the production of anew fabric, formed by the working needles and relative loops B, butinterrupted and also braided with the excluded needles and loops A, inorder to produce a closed or open knitted flounce formed of two layersor cloths B1, FIG. 2, internally of the usual knitted tube. This fabricgrowing or additional flounce B1 is characterised on the right side ofthe fabric by a perfect suture caused by elongation of the loops orneedle stitches A out of work and therefore excluded from production ofsaid flounce which can be repeated and varied both in height and inwidth.

In this case, the width is determined by the number of the excludedneedles or the periodic entry and exit in the tricot-formation processof one or more needles or other movable elements taking part in tricotformation at the edges or vertical outer limits of the pocket, denotedby S in FIGS. 9 and 10.

The method hereinbefore described is shown in FIG. 4, referred to asports sock 1, seen laterally, with the usual elastic top 2. In thiscase said flounce B1 formed of two layers or cloths 5 and 6, is placedinternally of the knitted tube 4 and extends from top to bottom, i.e.from the work circumference 7, being only partly interstitched with theouter knitted tube 4, until 8, i.e. an inner free welt that can beturned inside out, depending on circumstances.

At the upper portion 7, flounce B1 is interstitched only along half theneedle cylinder, therefore the open area becomes a pocket or pouch 3,disposed laterally, having an upper edge B formed of two layers thatapproximately extends over the second half of said cylinder.

The described configuration is illustrated in a different way in FIG. 6,in which sock 1, slightly pressed at arrows F1 and F2 until it takes adownwardly cone-shaped configuration, shows flounce B1 externally of theknitted tube 4, drawn out of the pocket or pouch 3 of FIG. 4.Interstitched close to the point denoted by X is about half of the innerflounce B1 in FIG. 4, corresponding to the knitted area or interstitchedcircumference denoted by 7 and therefore opposite to pocket 3.

In FIG. 6, the knitted fabric portion or flounce B1 forming the innercircle W is practically internally of the knitted tube denoted by arrowY1.

The inner portion of the knitted fabric circle W is produced with alower number of needles than the outer portion denoted by B1. FIG. 5shows an embodiment similar to the preceding one, with the differencethat sock 1 is provided with a pocket 3 located at the shin and that asmall central pattern or ornamental motif is added. FIG. 7 shows sock 1produced in accordance with the invention with an alternative solutionshowing the pocket 3 and relative upper edge B turned upwardly.

In this case the inner flounce B2 is turned inside out and up beyond theelastic top 2; the inner welt 8 of FIGS. 4 and 6 is completely turnedinside out and up and this alternative solution causes reversal of theposition of pocket 3, which is a further hypothesis that, in addition toincreasing flexibility of the invention, is particularly useful forother specific knitted items, in addition to socks.

In fact, looking at FIG. 7 in a reversed position, a very wide pocket orpouch may also be obtained which is ideal for knitwear items, with theadditional advantage of the elastic top 2. Shown again in FIG. 8 is thesame sock 1 of FIG. 5, seen laterally with addition of holes H at theinner flounce B1 interstitched with the outer cloth or layer for abouthalf the needle cylinder, whereas on the remaining part flounce B2itself, open, forms a pocket 3 completed with the upper edge B.

Said holes H are created by the prolonged exclusion of some needles fromthe tricot-formation process. Practically, the effects of the pneumaticpulling action of the sock and the tensions of the loops or stitchesstill retained by the needles are combined together.

The sizes of said holes depend on the machine needles per inch, orgauge, the number of the excluded needles, the exclusion time andemployed yarns count. By coordinating in an appropriate manner thevarious technical-textile factors, it is therefore possible to establishthe final effect of holes H. An additional embodiment of the inventionis shown in FIG. 8 concerning the anatomic conformation of heel T causedby the inner flounce located at the dashed area N-M coming out of thewide pocket 3 following the direction of the arrows. With the aid ofmobile stitch cams controlled by a computer, the knitted fabric can beonly widened in order to emphasize the shaping or anatomic conformationeffect of the knitted fabric at the heel.

FIG. 9 is a sectional view of the configuration of pocket 3 and relatedupper edge B, formed of layers or cloths F1 and F2 concentric with theinner fabric F3.

Identified by 3A is a hypothetical additional pocket the width of whichis determined by the number of needles employed or by needles, or jacks,or hooks alternatively operating for the purpose, possibly housed inanother needle bed. In order to implement the functions or the aestheticaspect of the knitted item being the object of the invention, one ormore floating yarns 7 can be inserted, by known techniques, within theflounce formed of layers F1-F2-F3, FIG. 9. The invention developmentgoes far beyond the hosiery field; in fact, FIG. 10 shows a pair ofpants 30 produced with a circular machine of medium diameter with anelastic top 2 and a central pocket 3 delimited at lines S. In accordancewith the invention, during knitting, that may indifferently take placeeither from the elastic top or from the opposite part, the usual workcycle is interrupted by the programmed exclusion of an appropriatenumber of needles retaining the relative loops, whereas the remainingneedle part goes on production. The dashed portion 31 corresponds to theinner flounce which, knitted with appropriate yarns, in accordance withthe invention, also performs the functions of an additionalaesthetically-invisible body support or containment element.

FIG. 11 shows a different application of the invention concerning asweater 20 fitted out with a main pocket 3 and a small pocket 3A placedon one of the sleeves, preferably produced with a small diametercircular machine.

The embodiment in FIG. 12 shows a general knitted item 40 characterizedby a series of multi-purpose pouch-like pockets, progressively denotedby 3-3A-3B-3C. The item in FIG. 13 on the contrary shows a T-shirt orbrassiere provided with two pockets 3, obtained with an electroniccircular knitting machine, according to the teachings of the invention.

In addition, these pockets can be further widened and, with the aid ofselective stitch-forming cams, i.e. cams only operating at the knittedfabric region corresponding to the breast or pockets, the amount ofstitches can be increased and the knitted fabric conformation can bemodified in order to stress the shaping or anatomic conformation effectobtained by turning the inner fabric inside out, in the same manner aspreviously described for heel T in FIG. 8.

The embodiment in FIG. 14 refers to a body stocking 50 fitted with acentral pocket 3 produced in accordance with the present invention andobtained from an inner flounce 58, as wide as area 55. In thisembodiment too the presence of one or more additional flounces 57 isprovided and can be turned inside out or movable according to arrow F.

The relative band 56, knitted with elastomer yarns, becomes a region forinvisible anatomic support and containment. The knitwear item 70 in FIG.15 diagrammatically shows a pair of trousers or a skirt fitted withpockets 3 and 3A.

In the case of a skirt 70, the inner flounce 71 duly lengthened oraesthetically enriched with known techniques (appropriateinterlacements, yarns or knitted fabric structures) in accordance withthe invention, automatically produces an additional cloth having afunction of under-dress, petticoat or lining, which may be more or lessvisible or transparent, depending on the user's wishes. For bestcomprehension of the invention potentialities, some remarks on thepresence and function of the previously described flounces arenecessary; also because such flounces in other embodiments greatlycharacterize the knitted items. In fact, a plurality of additional innerflounces are provided, which may be different in height, width andthickness, and obtained by a differentiated growing of the fabric havingdifferent functions and aims, for a better comfort and protection.

Finally, increasing the solidity of the pocket object of the inventionis possible by means of particular yarns, elastic, or provided with tinyhooks and eyelets, to be used only at the upper edge of said pocketsand/or at the immediately-opposite knitted fabric region in order toachieve a better closure of the said pocket.

The wide flexibility of the invention enables the shape and functions ofat least part of the present knitwear and hosiery production to begreatly modified, with the effects and results only partly describedherein.

The proper use of the reciprocating movement within the scope of theinvention also produces other original results such as hems or inner andouter borders, variously disposed.

The advantages of the invention are better emphasized with reference tothe single drawings.

In FIG. 1 a structure of jersey knitted fabric is shown with a floatingyarn Y produced by the complete absence of needles. FIG. 2 shows aknitted fabric obtained by working needles and loops B alternated withthe excluded needles and loops A. This production providingdifferentiated growing of the knitted fabric produces an inner two-layerflounce B1, seen in section in FIG. 2a. This flounce is variable inheight and width. In FIG. 3 and 3a it is shown, in front sectional viewa series of very short floating yarns, corresponding to 3-4-5 needlesalternated with selected needles disposed in a double and crosseddirection. This interlacing aims at tying the floating yarns Y in FIG. 1in order to obtain an aesthetically pleasant braid.

In FIG. 4 sock 1 is fitted with an elastic top; flounce B1, formed ofcloths 5 and 6, is at the inside of fabric 4. Said flounce is halfinterstitched by the cylinder needles at 7, whereas the second half isopen and forms the side pocket 3, with a two-layer upper edge B. Thesame sock 1 is further seen in FIG. 6 after taking the inner flounce B1out of said pocket 3 or turning it inside out. The fabric circleidentified by W goes back to the inside of the knitted tube 4, in thedirection of arrow Y1. In FIG. 5 sock 1 is provided with a front pocketplaced at the shin. This pocket, among other things, can be used as acontainer for plastics shinpads in sport activities or for otherpurposes requiring strong protection against impacts. An alternativeform of pocket 3, which is directed upwardly due to the reversedposition of the inner flounce B1, in addition to the elastic top 2 isshown in FIG. 7.

Sock 1, shown in FIG. 8, represents a pocket or pouch 3 which is as wideas half the needle cylinder, whereas the second half of the knitted tubeis characterized by a continuous series of horizontal holes H producedby distortion of loops as a result of a prolonged exclusion of therelated needles from the tricot-formation process. The sock portion T,corresponding to the heel, is optionally produced in accordance with theinvention; thus, the knitted fabric region within dashed lines M-Ncomprises the already described inner flounce and pocket 3 and the innercloth partly comes out of it for achieving a wrapping effect.

This is obtained with the aid of computerized stitch cams, which areadapted to modify the loop thickness during tricot formation only forthe needles corresponding to heel T. Pocket 3 of the preceding figure ina more diagrammatic manner, formed of cloths F1 and F2 which areopposite to and concentric with the inner cloth F3. Identified by 7 arethe floating yarns inserted between the layers of the flounce and/or inthe pocket. Identified by S are the outer limits of a hypotheticaladditional pocket.

Different pockets 3-3A in pants and other knitwear items are shown inFIGS. 10 and 11.

Other embodiments concerning a knitted item with a series ofmulti-purpose pockets 3-3A-3B-3C, are shown in FIG. 12.

A brassière 60 with two pockets 3 is shown in FIG. 13, which pockets, ifvery wide, are capable of opening for turning inside out part of theinner cloth 61 thus a high wrapping effect. FIG. 14 shows a bodystocking 50 with a central pocket 3 together with inner flounces 57 and58, at the respective areas 56 and 57, to be widely used for additionaleffects of targeted anatomic containment. Longer as 71 it is analternative solution for possible petticoats as in the case of skirt 70in FIG. 15, also provided with two side pockets 3 and 3A.

The present invention which is necessarily limited, offers wide marginsof innovation to those skilled in the art, all falling within the scopeof the invention.

What is claimed is:
 1. Method for producing three-dimensional knittedgoods on a circular knitting machine having at least a needle bedrotating against associated cams or vice versa, comprising the followingsteps, producing a first length of knitted tube (4), ending with a laststitch course, with the needles of said needle bed; and producing asecond length of knitted tube (4) starting from said last stitch courseof the first length; characterized in that said step of producing asecond length of knitted tube (4) comprises the steps of: excludingtemporarily from the knitting process a predetermined number of saidneedles, corresponding to a portion of the needle bed, saidpredetermined number of needles retaining their loops; producing a firstportion of said second length of knitted tube (4) with the remainingneedles of said needle bed, starting from said last stitch course of thefirst length; and reintroducing said predetermined number of excludedneedles in the knitting process, after a prefixed time depending on thelength of the first portion, to produce a second portion of said secondlength of knitted tube (4), whereby at least a pocket (3) of multilayerfabrics is automatically obtained on said knitted tube (4) in the areaof said first portion of the second length of the knitted tube (4), saidpocket (3) consisting in a flounce (B1)produced internally to the usualknitted tube (4) with a continuous rotary motion of the needle bed. 2.Method according to claim 1, characterized in that in said step ofproducing said first portion of said second length of knitted tube (4),needles excluded from operation are alternate with needles continuouslyoperating whereby, when said excluded needles are brought back intooperation, a closed flounce (B1) is formed in, the area of said firstportion of said second length of knitted tube (4).
 3. A method accordingto claim 2, characterized by the presence of a pocket or an innerflounce made of a multi-layer fabric, produced by all needles in atleast one region and by a reduced number of needles, disposed orselected in an alternating order, such as 1:1-2:2-3:3-3:1 and multiplesthereof, in the adjacent regions.
 4. A method as claimed in claim 2,characterized by the presence of an inner flounce made of a multi-layerfabric produced by a fixed selection only for some needles such as theodd ones, or by needles in alternating pairs, and then by thesimultaneous presence or knitting function of working needles alternatedwith needles still excluded, over definite regions for relatively longtime, producing a two-layer knitted pouch, which is closed or partlyopen within the usual knitted tube.
 5. A method according to claim 1characterized in that part of the needles or stitches is completelyexcluded from production in accordance with a pattern or motif convertedinto pulses or inputs or commands for the needles and according to adefined scheme or program in order to produce floating yarns as analternative to the stitch, in the excluded knitted fabric portion.
 6. Amethod according to claim 5, characterized in that in the alreadyexcluded knitted fabric region, only some needles work for the purposeof interlacing the floating yarns according to a preestablished patternor production cycle.
 7. A method according to claim 5 characterized inthat in the already excluded knitted fabric region, only part of theneedles work with a fixed selection in the rib direction, in order toproduce a knitted flounce on the reverse side of the fabric.
 8. A methodaccording to claim 5, characterized in that only one or more needlegroups are excluded, for the purpose of forming one or more openings orpockets fitted with two-cloth outer welts.
 9. Knitted goods obtained bythe steps of: producing a first length of knitted tube (4), ending witha last stitch course, with the needles of said needle bed; and producinga second length of knitted tube (4) starting from said last stitchcourse of the first length; characterized in that said step of producinga second length of knitted tube (4) comprises the steps of: excludingtemporarily from the knitting process a predetermined number of saidneedles, corresponding to a portion of the needle bed, saidpredetermined number of needles retaining their loops; producing a firstportion of said second length of knitted tube (4) with the remainingneedles of said needle bed, starting from said last stitch course of thefirst length; and reintroducing said predetermined number of excludedneedles in the knitting process, after a prefixed time depending on thelength of the first portion, to produce a second portion of said secondlength of knitted tube (4), whereby at least a pocket (3) of multilayerfabrics is automatically obtained on said knitted tube (4) in the areaof said first portion of the second length of the knitted tube (4), saidpocket (3) consisting in a flounce (B1) produced internally of the usualknitted tube (4) with a continuous rotary motion of the needle bed. 10.A knitted good according to claim 9, characterized by the presence of aninner multi-layer knitted fabric susceptible of being repeated andvaried both in height and width, and partially open to form a pocket.11. A knitted good according to claim 9, characterized by the presenceof one inner knitted fabric flounce forming a closed knitted fabricring, B1 which is partly interstitched at least at one of its ends. 12.A knitted good according to claim 9, characterized by the presence ofone inner multilayer flounce having the function of an inner lining oran outer accessory.
 13. A knitted good according to claim 9characterized by the presence of at least one pocket placed at a regionwhere there are two or more concentric cloths or flounce that can bealso turned inside out.